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One bar at a time

chocolate basics, one bar at a time

Twenty-four lessons on the cacao tree and its pod, fermentation and drying, the roast, the nib and the liquor, the 1828 press that split the bean into butter and powder, dark and milk and white, what the percentage really counts, conching and lecithin, tempering and bloom, Criollo and Forastero, the 1984 single origin movement and bean to bar, storing the bar, tasting order and a first proper square.


Steve Hodgkiss 6 lessons

One lesson, one diagram, and one honest bar. That's a page.

chocolate basics, one bar at a time

Twenty-four lessons on the cacao tree and its pod, fermentation and drying, the roast, the nib and the liquor, the 1828 press that split the bean into butter and powder, dark and milk and white, what the percentage really counts, conching and lecithin, tempering and bloom, Criollo and Forastero, the 1984 single origin movement and bean to bar, storing the bar, tasting order and a first proper square.


Set in Space Grotesk, Inter and JetBrains Mono (SIL Open Font License).

Every fact in this book is as the primary source states it, fetched and read during this build: the Wikipedia articles Chocolate, Cocoa bean, Cocoa butter, Chocolate liquor, Dark chocolate, Milk chocolate, White chocolate, Types of chocolate, Conching, History of chocolate, Theobroma cacao and Chocolate bar, all cached at build time and cited in each lesson's source line. The Wikipedia articles Single-origin chocolate and Tempering of chocolate do not exist: single-origin facts come from the History of chocolate article and tempering facts from the Chocolate, Types of chocolate and White chocolate articles, cited as such. Where two sources state different numbers, each is stated as its source states it. Practical rituals this book states as its own plan (the five-move tasting, the tasting order, the first proper square) are labeled as this book's plan and rest on mechanics from those sources. This is a book of beginner chocolate literacy, not a buying guide: no brand recommendations, the tree, the bean, the bar and the square only. An independent guide; not affiliated with or endorsed by Wikipedia. No facts are sourced from Reddit, YouTube, forums or search engines.

Your purchase is for personal use only. You do not have redistribution rights: please do not share, resell, or republish this book or its pages.

© 2026 Steve Hodgkiss. All rights reserved. Personal use only; no redistribution rights.

Edition 1.0 · stevehodgkiss.net

Contents

Contents


Part 1 · The tree and the bean
The cacao tree4
Part 2 · From bean to mass
Butter and powder5
Part 3 · The kinds of bar
What percent means6
Part 4 · Making the bar
Tempering7
Part 5 · Origin and craft
Origin or blend8
Part 6 · Keep and enjoy
A first square9

Per the Wikipedia articles Theobroma cacao and Chocolate, the cacao or cocoa tree is a small evergreen tree, 4 to 8 meters tall per the Chocolate article and 6 to 12 meters per Theobroma cacao; the generic name Theobroma is Greek for food of the gods, and Linnaeus gave cacao its botanical name in 1753; the tree naturally grows within 20 degrees of either side of the equator, because it needs about 2000 mm of rainfall a year and temperatures of 21 to 32 degrees C, and cannot tolerate a temperature lower than 15 degrees C; it was first domesticated at least 5,300 years ago in equatorial South America by the Mayo-Chinchipe culture, probably first for the pulp around the beans.

chocolate · No. 01
The tree and the bean

The cacao tree

Food of the gods, near equator

food of the gods, near equatorthe tree itselfTheobroma: Greek for foodof the gods, named byLinnaeus in 1753; a smallevergreen, pods on thetrunk, not the brancheswhere it can livewithin 20 degrees of theequator; about 2000 mm ofrain a year; 21 to 32degrees C of warmth; below15 degrees C the tree failsdomesticated at least 5,300 years ago in South America, probably first for the sweet pulp

The cacao tree is a small evergreen, and its name is a compliment: Theobroma, food of the gods, given by Linnaeus in 1753.

It lives only in a narrow band, within 20 degrees of the equator, wanting about 2000 mm of rain a year and steady warmth between 21 and 32 degrees C. Below 15 degrees C the tree fails.

It was first domesticated at least 5,300 years ago in equatorial South America, likely first for the sweet pulp around the beans.

TRY IT THIS WEEK

Check one chocolate label this week for a named country: if it lies in the tropics, you have found the tree's address.

Per the Wikipedia articles History of chocolate, Chocolate bar and Cocoa butter, in 1828 Coenraad Johannes van Houten received a patent for the manufacturing process for making Dutch cocoa, and the Van Houten hydraulic cocoa press separated cocoa butter from chocolate liquor, enabling the mass production of defatted cocoa powder; per the Chocolate bar article, the press reduced the cocoa butter content by nearly half and allowed the creation of pure cocoa butter on a large scale, and the additional cocoa butter mixed with cocoa liquor and sugar gave chocolate higher fluidity and moldability into more complex shapes, and in 1847 Fry's is credited with the introduction of eating chocolate in Great Britain; per the Cocoa butter article, cocoa butter, also called theobroma oil, is a pale-yellow edible fat with a melting point of around 34 to 38 degrees C, slightly below human body temperature, so chocolate is solid at room temperature but readily melts once inside the mouth.

chocolate · No. 02
From bean to mass

Butter and powder

The 1828 press split the bean

1828: one machine, two productsthe Van Houten presspatented 1828, it squeezedbutter out of liquor: powderfor drinking, pure butter atscale; spare butter mixedback in made bars flowwhy butter mattersa pale-yellow fat that meltsat 34 to 38 degrees C, justbelow body temperature; solidin the wrapper, liquid on thetongue: that is the whole trickthe solid chocolate industry begins with a press: powder for the cup, butter for the bar

In 1828 van Houten patented the press that squeezed butter out of liquor. One machine, two products: defatted cocoa powder for drinking, and pure cocoa butter at scale.

That spare butter made eating chocolate possible: mixed with liquor and sugar it flowed into molds, and in 1847 Fry's of Britain shaped it into the first modern solid bar.

Cocoa butter is a pale-yellow fat that melts just below body temperature, around 34 to 38 degrees C. That is why a bar survives the room and melts on the tongue.

TRY IT THIS WEEK

Let one square melt on your tongue this week without chewing: that is cocoa butter reaching body temperature.

Per the Wikipedia articles Chocolate and Dark chocolate, some manufacturers provide the percentage of chocolate in a finished confection as a label quoting percentage of cocoa or cacao; this refers to the combined percentage of both non-fat cocoa solids and cocoa butter in the bar, although their individual proportions are not specified; per Dark chocolate, chocolates with an identical cocoa percentage can have vastly different compositions and characteristics, chocolates containing more chocolate liquor are more intensely flavored and more viscous, and variability in the quality of cocoa beans means chocolates with lower cocoa percentages can have more desirable flavors than those with higher percentages; dark chocolates range in the percentage of total cocoa solids they contain, from products called dark chocolate at 40% to 100%, and a higher amount of total cocoa solids usually indicates more bitterness, although it is not always the case.

chocolate · No. 03
The kinds of bar

What percent means

One number, two ingredients

one number, two ingredientsbar A: 70%liquorbutterbar B: 70%liquorbuttersame number, different splits:more liquor, more intensity and viscosityand not a gradethe percent counts non-fatsolids plus butter together,never the split; better beansat a lower number can beatworse beans at a higher onethe percentage is a sum, not a scoreboard: dark runs from 40 to 100 percent

The number is a sum, not a purity test: non-fat cocoa solids plus cocoa butter, combined. How the percent splits between them, the label never says.

So two bars at 70 percent can be vastly different: more liquor means more intensity and viscosity, more butter means more flow and melt.

And the number is not a grade. Lower percentages can taste better than higher ones when the beans are better. Dark runs from 40 to 100 percent.

TRY IT THIS WEEK

Compare a 60 and an 80 percent bar this week and decide which number your own palate actually prefers.

Per the Wikipedia articles Types of chocolate, Chocolate and History of chocolate, the chocolate is tempered by heating, cooling and then reheating, which improves the product's appearance, stability and snap; per Chocolate, cocoa butter is a polymorphic fat with six different crystal forms, but only one of them, Form V, gives chocolate its characteristic snap, gloss and stable texture, and tempering eliminates the undesirable crystal forms and promotes the formation of Form V; per History of chocolate, tempering, the process of cooling and heating chocolate to form a crisp break and glossy appearance, was developed by 1931; and per Types of chocolate, couverture chocolate is a class of high-quality chocolate containing a higher percentage of cocoa butter, which is precisely tempered.

chocolate · No. 04
Making the bar

Tempering

Heat, cool, reheat, Form V

heat, cool, reheat, Form Vmeltcoolreheathold, setthe tempered squaresix crystals, one keepercocoa butter is polymorphic,six crystal forms; only Form Vgives the snap, the gloss anda stable bar; tempering meltsthe wrong five, keeps the onetempering was developed by 1931, the last classic step; couverture means precisely tempered

Tempering is a careful dance: heat, cool, then reheat, so the cocoa butter sets in its best crystal form. Do it and the bar snaps, shines and holds its shape.

Cocoa butter is polymorphic, with six crystal forms, and only Form V gives the snap, gloss and stability. Tempering melts the wrong forms and keeps the right one.

The technique was developed by 1931, the last classic step of chocolate making. Couverture, the pastry chef's chocolate, is defined by precise tempering.

TRY IT THIS WEEK

Snap one bar this week over the sink: a clean break with a gloss left behind is Form V saying hello.

Per the Wikipedia articles History of chocolate and Dark chocolate, single origin chocolates were first created in 1984, starting the bean-to-bar, or craft chocolate movement, and Valrhona introduced single-origin, vintage-dated chocolate in 1998 from a Trinidadian plantation; per Dark chocolate, the variations of dark chocolate are particularly noticeable among dark chocolates using single-origin cocoa beans, dark chocolate relies more on the quality of its cocoa beans and cocoa butter, and as of 2019, demand for dark chocolate containing more than 70% cocoa, particularly using beans from a single-source, was increasing; per Milk chocolate, although considered inferior to the Criollo variety, the Forastero type bean is more suited for the manufacture of milk chocolate and is cheaper to produce owing to its higher yields.

chocolate · No. 05
Origin and craft

Origin or blend

One place, or one house style

a place, or a house styleone placesingle originfirst created in 1984, thestart of the craft movement;Valrhona went further in 1998,vintage dating one Trinidadplantation, like a wine yearwhy it sings in darkdark leans on bean quality,so origin differences showmost clearly at high percent;a blend instead marries manybeans into one house stylea blend repeats itself forever; an origin bar is a vintage, and it will not come again

A blend aims at a house style that never changes; a single origin bar aims at a place and a year. Blends were the whole industry until recently.

Single origin was first created in 1984, the start of the bean-to-bar movement, and Valrhona went further in 1998 with vintage-dated chocolate from one Trinidadian plantation.

Why dark? Its reliance on bean quality makes origin differences most noticeable there, and demand for single-source bars over 70 percent keeps rising.

TRY IT THIS WEEK

Pick one country-named bar this week, Ghana or Ecuador or Madagascar, and taste the place instead of the brand.

This book's plan: a first proper square in five moves. The moves are sourced: per the Wikipedia article Chocolate bar, a bar lists its ingredients from liquor and cocoa butter to sugar, milk and lecithin; per the Wikipedia article Chocolate, Form V crystals give the bar its snap and gloss; per the Wikipedia article Cocoa butter, the butter melts just below body temperature, around 34 to 38 degrees C; and per the Wikipedia article History of chocolate, the Maya judged chocolate by its color, aroma, bean origin and flavor.

chocolate · No. 06
Keep and enjoy

A first square

The whole book, one bite

the whole book, one bitechoose a bar and read its label firstbreak one square, listen for the snapsmell the fresh break, name two aromaslet it melt slowly, no chewingdecide, plainly, if you like it, and whythis book's plantwenty-four lessonsin one honest bite;the judgment is theonly tool left to buylabel, snap, aroma, melt, verdict: five moves, and the bar finally gets to speak

Here is the whole book as one bite, this book's plan. One: choose a bar and read its label, ingredients and percent, before you open it.

Two: break off one square and listen for the snap of well-tempered butter. Three: smell the fresh break and name two aromas.

Four: let it melt slowly, no chewing, and follow the flavor as the butter reaches body heat. Five: decide, plainly, if you like it, and why.

TRY IT THIS WEEK

Eat your first proper square this week with all five moves, and write one honest sentence about the bean.

Index

Index


A first square9
Butter and powder5
Origin or blend8
Tempering7
The cacao tree4
What percent means6